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Being a non-Muslim meant that I could not enter Makkah alongside the others in the team who performed Umrah. Although disappointing, I have to respect the religion, and accept that this a gift offered only to those who follow Islam. It is important to recognise that Islam is not just a religion, but a way of life. Muslims live and breathe Islam; it guides them through life, and determines their everyday behaviour. Every step they take, they are representing their beliefs and values. These are my thoughts, as a non-Muslim, therefore I am aware that I could be wrong. But what I have seen in Saudi has demonstrated this before my eyes. I have seen a religious dedication that is to be admired. Although pilgrimage to Makkah is forbidden to me, it must be realised that pilgrimages are universal. Across countries and religions we all make our own pilgrimages, large or small, in search of morals or spiritual blessings. It is a human journey.
The old streets of Jeddah feel like an Arabian version of the Canterbury Tales. Narrow streets wind and branch into further streets, occasionally merging into one large square, like streams into an estuary, before splitting again. Buildings are slowly decaying, forgotten like a doll from childhood; tossed aside. On these streets are many characters: stall vendors trying to entice you to see their wares, a proud boy posing in his family’s jewelry shop, a lady fully cloaked with only her eyes showing (and yet I could feel she was smiling), and street cleaners, pausing with their brooms in the shade. As you walk, smells of spices, sewage, and perfumes greet the nose. I feel like I have seen the heart of the city.
I realise the importance of preserving and holding on to a city’s history and tradition, as well as making developments to work towards a better future for all. It is good to know that restoration of the old buildings is beginning to take place. There are also many modern structures here, such as shopping outlets, walls of glass, and miles of concrete. I do hope that the restoration project is completed sooner rather than later, before the heritage of this city becomes a pile of rubble. I cannot see the spice sellers and small perfume vendors surviving against a backdrop of brand names and towering air-conditioned buildings.
The fish market, for me, was a fascinating and also slightly horrifying experience. On the one hand, it was great to see all the fish in different colours and to witness the bargaining, and on the other it was a dirty and smelly place - momentarily home to live fish and hammerhead sharks. Our lunch consisted of a huge banquet of seafood, which included prawns, barbecued fish, and squid. The good news is that in Saudi, if there is any food left over from a meal, it is reused. Whoever eats the leftovers from our meal will be lucky, be it the poor or a street animal - this country is blessed with consideration.
Kingdom. The word conjures up a fairy tale. Childhood fantasies of being wrapped up in the Arabian Nights: tales of love, betrayal, greed, and murder. Jewels, sand, magic carpets, and camels (possibly grumpy). The air swirling with perfumes and clouds of shisha smoke.
Now I get to visit this mystic region and learn that there is more to it than meets the eye.
